糖心传媒

Few countries on earth issue such a pure call to explore the wild on foot as Iceland. This landscape 鈥� the ice, the lava fields, the gravel trails across grasslands 鈥� is best experienced with the ground underfoot and the wind (this being Iceland, it鈥檚 often a decidedly cold wind) in your hair.

Iceland鈥檚 hikes are a mix of shorter day or half-day walks, as well as multiday treks. The latter tend to be serious undertakings; you鈥檒l need to be self-sufficient, sleeping in mountain huts or your own tent, and we strongly recommend that you have a guide. But the benefits are limitless 鈥� it鈥檚 the best way to escape Iceland鈥檚 tourist crowds.

1. Svartifoss and beyond

Best for half-day hiking around Skaftafell

Distance: 5.3km (3.3 miles), 11km (6.8 miles) including Sj贸narn铆pa
Estimated time to complete: 2 hours, 5 including Sj贸narn铆pa
Level of difficulty: easy to moderate

If we had to choose one hike that showcases Iceland in microcosm 鈥� and that almost anyone can do 鈥� we鈥檇 choose this Skaftafell treasure. Skaftafell is one of those places where the 痴补迟苍补箩枚办耻濒濒 ice cap tumbles off the heights spectacularly close to the Ring Road, and this trail (S2) rises steadily into the foothills from the visitors center.

Even if you鈥檝e seen dozens of Icelandic waterfalls, you haven鈥檛 seen anything like Svartifoss. This brooding cascade crashes between black basalt columns formed in the distant past by the cooling and contraction of lava. On your return, if you鈥檙e feeling up to it, take the S6 trail 鈥� 11km (6.8 miles) return 鈥� which runs to Sj贸narn铆pa, with its sweeping views over Skaftafellsj枚kull.

Return to the S2 and, instead of retracing your steps to the visitors center, head west up the track to Sj贸narsker, where most hikers fall silent before the sight of Skei冒ar谩rsandura. The vast plain formed by the gravel, silt and sand washed down by the lava from volcanoes past unfurls to the far horizon. On your way back to the coastal plain and visitors center, stop by Sel, a traditional turf-roofed farmhouse.

Planning tip: Parking costs 1040 Icelandic kr贸nur (US$8.40) 鈥� pay at the machines in the parking lot or on the . You can also walk 3.7km (2.3 miles) to the tip or glacier snout of Skaftafellsj枚kull from the visitors center in an hour.

2. Laugavegurinn

Best long-distance trail

Distance: 55km (34 miles)
Estimated time to complete: 2鈥�5 days
Level of difficulty: challenging

The Laugavegurinn is like one long portal into another world. Stretching from Landmannalaugar to 脼贸rsm枚rk, it鈥檚 a glorious hike, made easier by the presence of mountain huts at regular intervals along the route. But such practicalities are secondary to the sheer magnificence of this trail, which takes you past vividly colored rhyolite mountains and transparent glacier rivers, within sight of some of Iceland鈥檚 signature glaciers, and alongside geothermal springs 鈥� Laugavegurinn means "Hot Spring Road."

After a relatively easy start from Landmannalaugar, you pass the boiling, seething earth at St贸rihver and otherworldly fields of black-as-black obsidian. Beyond 脕lftavatn, an unfolding glacial panorama includes sightings of pretty 惭媒谤诲补濒蝉箩枚办耻濒濒 and infamous Eyjafjallaj枚kull, which managed to shut down air travel in Europe for a week in 2010. The trail encounters rivers 鈥� you鈥檒l have to ford at least one stream 鈥� and ends amid the wildflowers of 脼贸rsm枚rk; inhale deeply all the way in.

Planning tip: months in advance. The Laugavegurinn usually opens in June and closes by mid-September (sometimes earlier).

3. Brei冒谩rm枚rk Trail

Best for glaciers and escaping the J枚kuls谩rl贸n crowds

Distance: 15.3km (9.5 miles)
Estimated time to complete: 4鈥�5 hours
Level of difficulty: challenging

Everyone who visits Iceland finds the iceberg-filled lagoon of J枚kuls谩rl贸n and the glacier tongue of Brei冒amerkurj枚kull irresistible. But we can count on one hand the number of travelers we鈥檝e met who鈥檝e walked the Brei冒谩rm枚rk Trail. Apart from the beauty 鈥� and relative solitude 鈥� along the way, the benefits of this route include being one of the longest hikes possible in Iceland without crossing rivers, climbing precipitous mountain trails or mounting a major expedition (although bring plenty of water).

The path begins in J枚kuls谩rl贸n鈥檚 western lot and largely follows the point where the steep-walled mountains of Iceland鈥檚 interior meet the flat coastal littoral. Within the first half hour of the walk, you can suddenly hear the silence. The first stop, after 10km (6.2 miles), is Brei冒谩rl贸n, one of the least-visited glacier-iceberg lagoon ensembles in Iceland. Further on, the hum of tourist traffic slowly returns as you approach 贵箩补濒濒蝉谩谤濒贸苍, a quieter version of J枚kuls谩rl贸n, but by then the healing power of ringing mountain silence should have worked its magic.

Planning tip: Get a map of the route for 250kr (US$2) at the Skaftafellsstofa vistors center, which doubles as an information center for 痴补迟苍补箩枚办耻濒濒 National Park, on the outskirts of Kirkjub忙jarklaustur.

4. 贵箩补冒谤谩谤驳濒箩煤蹿耻谤

Best for canyon views

Distance: 4km (2.5 miles)
Estimated time to complete: 1鈥�2 hours
Level of difficulty: easy to moderate

It may be short, but the walk from the lower parking lot to the observation deck at the canyon鈥檚 summit is one of suspended anticipation. The steady but rarely steep ascent runs parallel to the main canyon, with the canyon on one side and a flower-strewn grassy hillside on the other. As you climb, there are glimpses of 贵箩补冒谤谩谤驳濒箩煤蹿耻谤鈥檚 magic: a window in one of the mysterious columns of rock that are such a feature of this place, a snatched vision of elemental blue waters, a green riverside far below.

But for the most part, 贵箩补冒谤谩谤驳濒箩煤蹿耻谤 keeps its secrets. Only at the very last minute, from the deck at the canyon鈥檚 highest point, does the full splendor reveal itself, with a view down through the defile, as if the landscape鈥檚 interlocking pillars had been woven in stone. A waterfall, the stream鈥檚 glistening waters, the gasps of awe as each new traveler arrives 鈥� 贵箩补冒谤谩谤驳濒箩煤蹿耻谤 really does save the best until last.

Planning tip: For all the talk of the midnight sun, very few visitors see Iceland鈥檚 iconic landscapes bathed in the sepulchral half light of a summer鈥檚 evening 鈥� walk this route late at night and you鈥檒l find it blissfully free of fellow travelers.

5. 脕sbyrgi to Dettifoss

Best for experiencing nature鈥檚 power

Distance: 37km (23 miles)
Estimated time to complete: 2 days
Level of difficulty: easy to moderate

In the north of Iceland, walking trails link two of the country鈥檚 most significant attractions, taking you all the way through the stunning canyon of J枚kuls谩rglj煤fur (in the northern reaches of 痴补迟苍补箩枚办耻濒濒 National Park).

The path begins at U-shaped 脕sbyrgi, surrounded by cliffs 50m (164ft) high. Having explored what can feel like a lost world cut off from the rest of the country, stop by 脕sbyrgi's Glj煤frastofa visitors center to pick up maps that will guide you south. But it鈥檚 difficult to get lost 鈥� the paths shadow the J枚kuls谩 river, taking you through cathedral-like spaces and the valley of Vesturdalur, a pristine place where, local legends assert, the rock pillars are trolls turned to stone when caught by the sun鈥檚 arrival. South of Vesturdalur at H贸lmatungur, the river channel narrows, creating roiling water and whirlpools. Then it鈥檚 on to the waterfalls of Hafragilsfoss. But they鈥檙e nothing compared to the raw power of Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall.

Planning tip: Stick to the west bank of the J枚kuls谩 鈥� the only bridge that crosses the river is near 脕sbyrgi in the north, and it鈥檚 not possible to cross further south. Check the  along the way.

6. Systravatn

Best for solitude and valley views

Distance: 5km (3.1 miles)
Estimated time to complete: 2 hours
Level of difficulty: easy to moderate

By the time you鈥檝e learned how to pronounce Kirkjub忙jarklaustur like an Icelander, you鈥檒l have seen most of what there is to see in this small southern town 鈥� the striking stone-and-wood Steingr铆msson Memorial Chapel, built to honor its namesake鈥檚 Eldmessa (Fire Sermon), which saved the town from lava in July 1783. Along this lonely stretch of the Ring Road, even Kirkjub忙jarklaustur, home to fewer than 200 souls, can feel like a metropolis.

At the western end of town, the double waterfall of Systrafoss is a handsome cascade and the starting point of the climb out of the valley and up to Systravatn, a haunting high-altitude lake. Up here, you can smell the flowers, hear the birds and enjoy views that, when the sun is shining, can extend all the way to the ice cap of 痴补迟苍补箩枚办耻濒濒. Like any fabled place, it has a dark side too. According to local legend, two nuns drowned while bathing here after they watched a hand emerge from the lake adorned with a golden ring; when they reached for it, they were dragged into the depths.

Instead of returning via the same route, take the path down to 碍颈谤办箩耻驳贸濒蹿, a natural rock formation that archaeologists once mistook for the ruins of a church.

Planning tip: Skaft谩rstofa's visitors center sells maps and hiking guides to 痴补迟苍补箩枚办耻濒濒, including 10 walks in the Kirkjub忙jarklaustur area.

7. Royal Horn (Hornslei冒)

Best for wild beauty

Distance: 80km (50 miles)
Estimated time to complete: 4鈥�5 days
Level of difficulty: challenging

Imagine a place so wild that no roads reach it and you have to arrive by boat. Along the coast of the Westfjords in Iceland鈥檚 outer west, the Royal Horn (Hornslei冒) is a series of trails that offer a genuine wilderness experience along wild and windswept cliffs. This little-known hike takes you through the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, a world of lonely fjords, emerald-green bluffs and swooping gulls, and easily the best place in Iceland to see an Arctic fox. Possessed of a stark and austere beauty, it is utterly unlike anywhere else in Iceland, and the route is a fabulous way to experience the natural drama of the Westfjords.

Rather than being just one hike, the paths out here can be as short as a day 鈥� take a tour out of 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤 鈥� or as long as five; the latter, the authentic Royal Horn, runs from Vei冒ileysufj枚r冒ur to Hesteyri.

Planning tip: The visitors center in 脥蝉补蹿箩枚谤冒耻谤 can help with advice, practical information and maps, and it has a small exhibit on the Arctic fox. Hornv铆k and Hesteyri are the two main base camps, staffed by a lone ranger.

8. Askja Caldera

Best for volcanic splendor

Distance: 5km (3.1 miles)
Estimated time to complete: 2 hours
Level of difficulty: moderate to challenging

You鈥檙e spoiled for choice when it comes to hiking the storied interior of Iceland鈥檚 Highlands region. Local legends from centuries past tell of fugitives and mythical creatures all across this sparsely inhabited realm where trails cross lava fields, climb volcanoes and spend time amid the lush oasis of Her冒ubrei冒arlindir, with its green moss, angelica and the pinky-purple flowers of Epilobium latifolium (a type of evening primrose also called dwarf fireweed). You can even climb Her冒ubrei冒, which Icelanders call Queen of the Mountains.

But we鈥檝e chosen the Askja caldera. Only a volcano could have created such a place. Unless you鈥檝e chosen to hike the 8km (5 miles) from the F910 from Drekagil, the trail begins at the main Askja parking lot. From there it鈥檚 a superb walk into and through the volcanic caldera. You crunch a lava field strewn with sienna and magenta stones to V铆ti, a vent that opened up during an eruption, causing a tephra crater that is now filled with geothermal waters. The cerulean waters of 脰skjuvatn are usually swimmable 鈥� a truly surreal experience with awe-inspiring views.

Planning tip: The good folks at , Iceland鈥檚 highest altitude farm and just 8km (5 miles) off the Ring Road, run jeep and hiking tours, including to Askja and Her冒ubrei冒, which are accessible only in a 4WD.

Tips for hiking in Iceland

• Hiking in Iceland is usually only possible from June to September, depending on conditions. In some years, trails may open as early as May and stay open into early October, or they may not open until July and close in August.

• Iceland is known for its potentially extreme weather, which change rapidly and without warning, even in summer. Come prepared for all conditions, and always notify someone before setting out on a longer hike.

• Check for possible hazards at ; the SafeTravel app can help you send your GPS location to 112 emergency services.

• Glacier hiking 鈥� which we don鈥檛 cover here 鈥� involves walking onto one of Iceland鈥檚 glaciers. Never attempt this on your own, and only undertake glacier hiking with an accredited guide and the necessary safety equipment.