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Centuries-old castles, rust-red-roofed homes, white-walled alleys, soul-stirring strategic cliff-top sites and an enthrallingly volatile history: 颁谩诲颈锄鈥� pueblos blancos (white towns) are a joy to unravel. The finest can be perfectly strung together on a multi-day drive.

础苍诲补濒耻肠铆补 bursts with beautifully blanched villages 鈥� originally (unromantically) whitewashed in the 19^th century to deflect the sun and disinfect. But it鈥檚 those in 颁谩诲颈锄 province, particularly in the northeast, that have awarded themselves the official title of "white towns." For two centuries between the Christian conquests of Seville in 1248 and Granada (the final Muslim emirate) in 1492, these fortified towns straddled the ever-changing Christian鈥揗oorish frontier.

Vejer de la Frontera

There鈥檚 magic in the air in gorgeous , perched in windswept whiteness atop a rocky crag 50km (31 miles) southeast of 颁谩诲颈锄. Like its fellow de la frontera (on the frontier) towns, Vejer hums with historical intrigue and a tangible Moorish influence. Original stone gateways and 15^th-century defensive walls pop up around the tangled old town. Overlooking it are the restored 10th- or 11th-century Moorish castle and the Iglesia del Divino Salvador, an architectural marriage of 14th-century Mud茅jar and 16th-century Gothic styles.

Just off palm-dotted Plaza de Espa帽a is the 18^th-century Casa del Mayorazgo with its flower-filled patios and ancient watchtower. A short drive away at Los Ca帽os de Meca, El Palmar and Zahara de los Atunes lie the broad, sandy blonde beaches of wind-lashed .

Vejer is also an understated foodie hotspot and the boutique hotel haven of 础苍诲补濒耻肠铆补. Drop by the smartly reimagined Mercado de Abastos for sherry and tapas, both classic and creative; savor expertly executed Moroccan-Andalucian cuisine at labyrinthine ; and try local ingredients in inventive seasonal concoctions at Corredera 55. You can hone your culinary skills with food tours and cooking classes courtesy of Annie B鈥檚 Spanish Kitchen.

Where to sleep:  is an exquisite Morocco-inspired boutique hotel with an outstanding restaurant. At , sleek design meets antique furnishings with a rooftop hot tub. 

Arcos de la Frontera

If you had to pick just one destination to fulfil your white-town dreams, it would probably be . Strewn across a sheer-sided crag, 75km (46 miles) north of Vejer, much-admired Arcos tells a turbulent story that saw it go from an independent 11^th-century Berber-ruled taifa (small kingdom) to a Christian stronghold.

Wander the old town鈥檚 web of slim, evocative streets and call in at Plaza del Cabildo. Here are Arcos鈥� luxurious parador (top-end state-owned hotel), 11^th-century Moorish castle (now closed to visitors) and vertiginous mirador (lookout) overlooking the R铆o Guadalete. Pop into splendid Gothic-baroque churches such as the Bas铆lica Menor de Santa Mar铆a de la Asunci贸n, then retreat into the lively world of Arcos鈥� classically Andalucian tapas bars. Taberna J贸venes Flamencos rustles up traditional favorites with contemporary flair amid glowing flamenco鈥揵ullfighting decor.

Where to sleep:   is a rambling 18^th-century cliff-side mansion with seven modern-rustic rooms and a glorious rooftop terrace.  has two charming rooms and a five-person apartment in a 600-year-old British-owned guesthouse.

Grazalema

Clinging to the rugged green slopes of the Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema, 50km (31 miles) east of Arcos, little adds mountain flavor to its own white-village charm. Hiking paths ramble off in every direction, making this the park鈥檚 most popular base. Climb 500m (1640ft) to the ruined 18^th-century El Calvario chapel; hike the 12km (7.4 miles; 6 hours one-way) El Pinsapar trail past rare dark-green pinsapos (Spanish firs); or conquer the province鈥檚 highest peak, El Torre贸n which sits at 1648m (5406ft) (3km/1.8 miles or 2陆 hours each way). The best months to hit the trails are May, June, September and October. Adventure lovers should check out an outfitter called  for kayaking, canyoning, caving, climbing, guided hiking, vie ferrate or paragliding.

Grazalema village itself is known for its honey, mountain cheeses and Visigothic fountains, as well as its wool blankets, which you can learn about at the Museo de Artesan铆a Textil. does wonderfully traditional mountain cooking, featuring local cheeses, chorizo and tagarninas (thistles), while puts a contemporary spin on Grazalema tapas.

Where to sleep:  has homey, excellent-value lodging offering detailed hiking information.  is a tastefully styled nine-room village house with plenty of color and a pool.

Zahara de la Sierra

About 17km (10.5 miles) north of Grazalema, over the spine-tingling 1357m (4452ft) Puerto de las Palomas pass, Zahara is wrapped around a lofty crag overlooking a twinkling turquoise reservoir. This is one of 颁谩诲颈锄鈥檚 most perfectly formed white villages, its streets overflowing with fuchsia-hued bougainvillea in the shadow of the 18^th-century baroque Iglesia de Santa Mar铆a de Mesa. High above looms Zahara鈥檚 crumbling 12^th-century castle, whose recapture by Moorish Granada in 1481 fired up the Christians to reconquer all that remained of Moorish Spain.

One of the most exhilarating walks in the entire Sierra de Grazalema 鈥� into the precipitous Garganta Verde 鈥� begins 3.5km (2.17 miles) south of Zahara. You鈥檒l clamber down a 100m(328 ft)-deep green gorge (2.5km/1.5 mile, one hour) accompanied only by huge griffon vultures whooshing by in a close-up blur. Back in Zahara, refuel with Ronda wines and imaginative Andalucian cooking at Al Lago.

Where to sleep:  is attached to a terrific restaurant, Al Lago鈥檚 six rooms bring a dash of boutique-hotel sparkle to Zahara.

Olvera

Olvera juts out dramatically above neat rows of olive trees on the northern fringe of the Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema, 27km (16.7 miles) northeast of Zahara. A tad earthier than other pueblos blancos, it was once a bandit hideout. Dive into Olvera鈥檚 past with the sky-reaching 12^th-century Castillo 脕rabe, 1840s neoclassical church, 17^th-century Santuario de los Remedios and intriguing frontier-history museum.

Most people, however, come to Olvera for the famed 36km (22 miles) V铆a Verde de la Sierra 鈥� a favorite among 23 disused Andalucian railways transformed into flat(ish) cycling/hiking paths. The route whizzes west along viaducts and tunnels to Puerto Serrano. Hire bikes (鈧�15/US$17 per day) at just outside Olvera.

Setenil de las Bodegas

Just when you thought you had the pueblos blancos sussed out, along comes sleepy (though increasingly popular) Setenil de las Bodegas, 14km (8.6 miles) southeast of Olvera. No cliff-top defenses here: people delved deep into caves for protection instead. The idea worked so brilliantly that it took a 15-day siege for the Christians to recapture Setenil from the Moors in 1484. The 12^th-century castle still stands, as do plenty of original cave-houses. Some have been reincarnated as vibrant bars and restaurants, particularly along Plaza de 础苍诲补濒耻肠铆补 along with Calles Cuevas del Sol and Cuevas de la Sombra.