Whilst the Argentinian capital is still revered for its impressive number of top-notch parrillas (steakhouses), the food and drink scene in Buenos Aires has boomed over the past decade.

From contemporary bodegones and trendy bistros to new wine joints and award-winning cocktail bars, Buenos Aires is becoming the star of the gastronomy world. Michelin published its first Argentina restaurant guide in November, the same month 14 establishments ranked on Latin America鈥檚 50 Best Restaurants 2023.

It鈥檚 time to don an elasticated waistband and make some reservations.

Breakfast

Caffeine kickstarts my day and I love to saunter over to, a caf茅 five blocks from home on the cusp of Villa Crespo and Chacarita. This French-owned coffee shop captured my heart during the pandemic thanks to its one tiny bench on the sidewalk, two-for-one cappuccinos and delightfully friendly service.

Though those discount days are long gone, my favorite barista Estefan铆a still works there, whipping up impeccable latte art. Get there for 9 am, when it鈥檚 just opened, and the sunlight falls perfectly on the vintage furniture. There鈥檚 usually a photography exhibition adorning the mint-hued walls, and the eclectic soundtrack bounces between electro-pop and jazz. Breakfast for me is light and savory, so I order a flat white and puffy sourdough croissant.

For a more substantial morning meal I will order the delicious ham and cheese toasted sandwich on gluten-free bread from in Palermo Hollywood. Tucked away in an urban garden, brunch among 600 blooming plants is a calming way to begin the weekend.

Coffee

There鈥檚 a plethora of great specialty coffee shops in Chacarita, my neighborhood of 11 years. on Newbery is pretty hipster 鈥� they roast beans in-house and the coffee is excellent 鈥� it鈥檚 also pet-friendly. On the same street is , a lovely sunny corner whose caffeine comes from Fuego Tostadores. Staff bring your beverage to the table here, rather than bellowing out your name. Within walking distance is , where I go for an uplifting espresso, and , whose lattes come in beautiful handmade mugs. I鈥檒l inevitably pick up a sourdough loaf to take home.

Lunch

From an upcycled industrial bakery in La Paternal, Jazm铆n Marturet cooks dishes she discovered from traveling across Southeast Asia. I love her p芒t茅 b谩nh m矛 style (pork liver pate) and larb gai issan, a spicy chicken salad that鈥檚 bursts with flavor. Open only at lunch, the menu changes each fortnight, and is one of the best priced in town. It鈥檚 a legit spot frequented by locals who drop by for a quick lunch. The restaurant packs out at the weekend, so book ahead.

In the same barrio, recently opened started out as a takeout-only a vegan pasta diner in Chacarita and proved so successful, it is now a permenant. Its all-female kitchen plays around with ramen and I love the playful trifungi, mushroom-stuffed triangles doused in a dreamy pesto-and-cashew-cream sauce.

Aperitivo

It's the diverse selection available of wine by-the-glass that keeps me coming back to in Chacarita. This bijou wine bar has a wealth of Argentine vintages and some superb European styles too, all served in beautiful glassware. Ancohita Cava attracts a cool crowd, some who come only for the 100-plus cheeses on offer. I usually go for a tangy Cheddar for a taste of the UK. If it鈥檚 full, head over to or , two trendy alternatives within walking distance.

Dinner

Bib Gourmand-recommended pairs fantastic cooking and great value. Chef Facundo Kelemen jacked in law books for cooking tomes and now creates contemporary versions of porte帽o dishes in Palermo, such as revuelto Gramajo, a ham, egg and potato hash.

Depending on who I鈥檓 with, I will grab a stool at the kitchen counter to watch the team at work or sink into the comfy sofa at a table for four. For a more intimate experience with friends, I will book the private dining room that doubles as a wine cellar. To start I鈥檒l order the tiny empanadas (dough pockets stuffed with wagyu beef and topped with lemon zest) and devour them in a single bite. They explode in your mouth.

I will then move on to the crunchy seafood rice with scallops and the 帽oqui chip谩 souffl茅, dreamy gnocchi served in a delicious black pudding broth. Add a decent vintage and you鈥檒l pay around US$40 at the blue exchange rate (informally bought cash dollars). While it鈥檚 best to make a reservation, even more so since the November Bib Gourmand furor, the team always holds back a couple of walk-in tables.

Bar

After an evening dining out, I can be easily tempted to stop by for a drink and a boogie. Hidden behind the deli counter of (whose vegan hotdogs will fill any late-night hunger pangs), this speakeasy is slap bang in the middle of Palermo Soho. Push through the palm tree-decorated curtains and you will discover two different bars 鈥� both sporting plenty of neon. The terrace gets packed out with bright young things dancing to regga茅ton but I prefer to release my energy to an 80s and 90s soundtrack downstairs beneath the enormous glitter ball, refreshing lemon champetta cocktail in hand. I'm usually home by 1 am on a school night, but at least I鈥檝e had some fun, even if it鈥檚 early by Argentine standards.