
The view from inside a café in Utrecht. Samira Kafala for ÌÇÐÄ´«Ã½
I was smitten with Utrecht after just one visit. It’s incredibly easy to romanticize your life here as you walk long gable-lined canals that run under illuminated bridges and enjoy a drawn-out lunch in a cozy bruin café (traditional Dutch pub) sitting by a window that's framed by Gothic church spires, watching incredibly stylish people whizz by on their bicycles. You don't have to put a lot of effort in to see nice things here. Just wander and you'll come across giant bunnies propped against historic buildings, retro cafés hidden in converted wharf cellars and maybe some of the cleanest urban streets you'll ever see in your life.
There's such a pleasant atmosphere in the city, in part due to its walkability and cycle-friendly infrastructure (I never once heard a car beep during my visit). And it's so easy to get there – a quick 25-minute train from Amsterdam – that you feel calm as soon as you land in its .
Utrecht is an easy day trip from the Dutch capital, but the best way to appreciate all of this is to stay a few days.
This is what a perfect weekend in Utrecht looks like.
When to arrive: Friday to Sunday provides an ideal three-day introduction to the city. There's something inherently cozy about Utrecht, so it works wonderfully as an autumn or winter weekend city break.
How to get from the airport: Direct trains from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport take around 30 minutes (11 one way), while trains from Amsterdam Centraal take about 25 minutes (€9) and run every 15 minutes or so.
Getting around town: Utrecht's historic center is easily walkable, with most attractions within a 20-minute radius of each other. Though, if you'd like to blend in with the locals, . Buses are the primary mode of public transport and run like clockwork, plus there are three trams that connect the city's neighborhoods.
What to pack: If you're visiting in the colder season, you'll need layers and a rainproof jacket that you can stuff in your bag. You'll likely end up doing a lot of walking so pack comfortable shoes.
Where to stay: is a self-check-in, capsule-room hostel with well-stocked boutique-style rooms and pods. It's located in a former church near Utrecht Centraal, and a one-person pod costs about €52 per night midweek. Alternatively, bed down at the four-star , where rooms cost roughly €152 to €223 per night for two people.
Day 1
Morning
Start in the calm environs of , a speciality coffee shop with large windows overlooking the Oudegracht canal. Order a creamy flat white or matcha and a chewy salted dark chocolate cookie and take them to the outdoor bench where you can sit, eat and enjoy views of the Domtoren bell tower, the city's towering landmark since 1321. If you're feeling energetic, climb Domtoren's 465 steps (€14.50 for a ) for the best views of the city.
The city’s two main canals – the Oudegracht and Nieuwegracht – cut right through the historic quarter and are the perfect places for an early morning stroll. When you're done with breakfast, wander the Oudegracht to see Utrecht's signature wharf cellars, former storage spaces at water level that have been repurposed into cafés and shops. Reachable by stone steps, it's a different world down here, calm and quiet, where students gather over coffee and locals read books by the water.
How to spend the day
Join a 90-minute beginning in the cloistered courtyard of St Martin's Cathedral – it used to be the Netherlands' largest church before a 1674 storm separated the nave from its tower. The route winds through the Old Town, stopping at street art murals, cheese shops and historic buildings decorated with flower boxes. When the tour is done, you could head back to for a guided visit to the Roman archaeological site underneath the church.
For lunch, try , a four-table, family-run Surinamese bakery serving curries with rice or roti, or stuffed into broodjes (bread rolls). It's walk-in only and often requires waiting, but the family recipes are worth it.
Next, hit the shops. Utrecht takes pride in its local businesses, and you’ll see reminders of this commitment throughout the city, with signs encouraging you to “buy local, shop local.†Browse the concept store , look for minimalist fashion at , find preloved clothes at , and go crafty at , which specializes in colored threads, ribbons and seasonal decorations, before losing yourself in the colorful and tightly-packed shelves at Boekhandel Bijleveld (which stocks English language books too).
Detour: I will travel for a beautiful bookshops and when I heard that bookstore is the most beautiful in the Netherlands, I hopped on the 4958 Sprinter bus from Almere Centrum (right by the Zara store) to get there. Located in an Art Deco building, this has been around since 1887 and inside it looks like not much has changed since. Enduringly timeless, it's worth the 35-minute bus journey, if that's your thing.
Dinner
Book ahead for , a French-style bistro and wine bar, for slow-cooked beef cheeks and Basque black pudding.
After dark
People in Utrecht love their bars and bistros with outdoor seating so they can sit and people watch over a beer, whatever the weather. , and the on the canal are popular, but one of my favorites is the outdoor terrace at the , an art deco-style two-screen cinema and café with tables that spill out onto the sidewalk under a canopy of hanging lights and bright green awnings. All ages seem to gather here, so it's a pleasant spot to chill with a drink.
Day 2
Morning
Begin your day at , a hole-in-the-wall café on a lively corner of the Oudegracht surrounded by vintage stores and record shops. From there, it's a short walk to the Miffy Museum. Utrecht is the birthplace of Miffy (or Nijntje, as she's known in Dutch), the beloved giant white bunny character created by Dick Bruna. If you're traveling with kids (or you get a buzz from really cute things), it's a playful, interactive space, though adults will appreciate the insight into the local illustrator's legacy.
For a broader cultural experience, try the Centraal Museum across the street. Its collection spans from contemporary Dutch art and architecture to fashion designs by Viktor & Rolf and medieval artifacts. Or head to Museum Speelklok and see self-playing organs, music boxes and instruments from the 18th-century onward in this whimsical music museum.
How to spend the day
Ride tram 8 for 20 minutes out of the city to the ¸é¾±±ð³Ù±¹±ð±ô»å-³§³¦³ó°ùö»å±ð°ù³ó³Ü¾±²õ. Designed by Gerrit Rietveld and owner Truus Schröder in 1924, this house/museum is one of the only built examples of the De Stijl architecture movement. Its primary colors and dissolved boundaries are worlds apart from the somber redbrick buildings surrounding it and is a wonderful place for design inspiration. Book a ticket for ¸é¾±±ð³Ù±¹±ð±ô»å-³§³¦³ó°ùö»å±ð°ù³ó³Ü¾±²õ in advance (or plan to visit on one of the summer Fridays when it is open late).
On the way back to the city center, detour to , a renovated 1739 windmill that's now a restaurant, brewery and café. The mill hosts weekly exhibitions about its former life as a sawmill, and you can enjoy coffee with famous poffertjes (traditional Dutch mini pancakes) on the canal-side terrace. There's even a small farm with animals for children.
Dinner
Slip into on Lucasbolwerk for Mediterranean-inspired dishes and natural wine served under low lighting.
After dark
You could dance the rest of the night away at , a bar and live music venue. For something more low-key, stop at , a counterculture and inclusive venue with weekly game nights, a decent selection of drinks and snacks, and what it proclaims is the "world's worst karaoke."
Day 3
Morning
Head to , a brasserie housed in a former church whose facade resembles an old residential building - it really looks nothing like a church from the outside. This is a consequence of Utrecht's Protestant Reformation tolerance that allowed other faiths to worship as long as exteriors remained discreet. Inside it looks very church-like though and the preserved organ and religious sculptures, create an unusual contrast alongside the high vaulted ceilings that house an impressive selection of Belgian beers and Dutch gin. Come for an early lunch and feast on a BLT sandwich, Norwegian poached eggs, or a salad and burger.
How to spend the day
If you have time before your departure, take a day trip to , west of the city. It takes about an hour to get there via the Sprinter 6040 train from Utrecht Centraal to Vleuten and then you have to take the 127 bus from Vleuten to the castle. But if you've acclimatised to Utrecht's way of life already, you could rent a bike and cycle 35 minutes to the castle. It's worth the legwork because this place fulfills every fairy-tale expectation: moat, drawbridge, spikey turrets, paneled rooms filled with antiques. It's beautiful!
If you did arrive by bike and have some time to spare, you could keep going with stops at , another stunning moated castle, and , for a peek at a Roman ship.
Dinner
End your weekend in Utrecht with a reservation at , where chefs turn 100% locally sourced fare into dinners with imaginative flavor combinations. I often think about the kimchi, cheese and sweet bread pudding I had there. End your night as locals do, with gelato from – best enjoyed during a stroll along those lovely illuminated canals.

Plan with a local









