糖心传媒

罢丑别谤别鈥檚 Italy 鈥� and then there鈥檚 Naples.

No other city in the bel paese is as intense, complex and unapologetically bonkers as this heartbreakingly beautiful renegade. Older than Rome (!), Italy鈥檚 third-largest city serves up an embarrassment of riches 鈥� from ancient ruins and opulent palazzi to intoxicating street life and majestic panoramas.

Yet even amid all this splendor, Naples remains one of the country鈥檚 most affordable cities, from coffee and dinners to accommodations. What鈥檚 more, some of its finest assets are gloriously free of charge.

If you want to save those euros for pizza, gelato and other epicurean treats, here are 12 ways to see the rest of the best of Naples for free.

1. Enjoy the living museum that is Naples鈥� centro storico

Who needs to buy a museum ticket when you鈥檝e got the plein-air galleries of Naples鈥� centro storico (historic center)? This living, breathing time machine 鈥� one of Europe鈥檚 largest historic areas 鈥� offers thousands of years of art and architecture to admire, all for free. Ponder Greek ruins on bar-flanked Piazza Bellini, medieval architecture at the and stirring baroque artistry at the Chiesa del Ges霉 Nuovo. While the frescoed, majolica-tiled cloister of is well worth the price of admission, one hidden oasis awaits for no cost: the Giardino di San Marcellino, a lush, secluded cloister tucked within the Universit脿 degli Studi di Napoli Federico II on Via Bartolomeo Capasso.

2. Ponder miracles at the Duomo 

Each May, June and September, the faithful pack into Naples鈥� epic cathedral to witness the city鈥檚 most reliable miracle: the liquefaction of San Gennaro鈥檚 blood. If the usually dried blood returns to its original, liquid state, Neapolitans breathe a collective sigh of relief; if it doesn鈥檛, the city鈥檚 luck is said to run dry. Believer or not, you sure won鈥檛 dispute one truth: the chapel where this miracle unfolds 鈥� the Cappella di San Gennaro 鈥� is simply dazzling. Pull up a pew and lose yourself in Giovanni Lanfranco鈥檚 intoxicating baroque fresco Paradiso, so alive you can almost hear it.

Planning tip: Encrusted in Byzantine mosaics, the Duomo鈥檚 unmissable Battistero di San Giovanni in Fonte is the oldest baptistry in Western Europe.

3. Check out the planet鈥檚 most beautiful metro station

One 鈧�1.80 (US$2.01) metro ticket grants you entry to what might be the world鈥檚 most beautiful underground station: the 脪scar Tusquets Blanca鈥揹esigned Toledo. It鈥檚 the crown jewel of Naples鈥� 鈥�,鈥� dreamed up by some of the world鈥檚 top architects and artists. Your journey begins with Neapolitan-themed murals by conceptual heavyweight William Kentridge. As you descend, a monumental porthole 鈥� aglow with Robert Wilson鈥檚 mesmerizing light installation 鈥� looms above, spilling light into the sea-blue cavern below. Hop on the next train to explore candy-hued Universit脿, another standout stop.

4. Muse on modern art

Hankering for world-class modern art but not keen on splashing out for a ticket to MADRE? Head to the Chiaia neighborhood instead to explore two of Naples鈥� most compelling private galleries, both housed in grand old palazzi. The , founded in 1971 and occupying the gallerist鈥檚 former home, is renowned for discovering emerging talent. Further west, London鈥檚 brings international clout, showcasing the work of renowned creatives like Steve McQueen, Amy Sillman and Bice Lazzari 鈥� all framed by views of Naples鈥� fabled bay.

Planning tip: You'll find up-to-date gallery and exhibition listings at .

5. Fawn over art nouveau architecture and fine fashion in Chiaia

In Chiaia, Napoli reveals its elegant side 鈥� chic boutiques, bourgeois manners and some of Southern Italy鈥檚 flounciest Liberty (Italian art nouveau) architecture. Take it all in with a stroll from Piazza Amedeo to Piazza dei Martiri, passing along Via Vittorio Colonna, Via dei Mille and Via Filangieri. Peer into galleries, window-shop Italian high fashion, and politely ask the porter for a peek at Palazzo Mannajuolo鈥檚 magnificent elliptical staircase at Via Filangieri 35鈥�37. Just off Piazza dei Martiri, buzzing is perfect for browsing books鈥�and eavesdropping.

Planning tip: Chiaia is famous for its aperitivo bars, so consider exploring in the late afternoon for a post-walk tipple.

6. Get a bird鈥檚-eye view from Vomero

Funiculars lead up to the hilltop neighborhood of Vomero, home to hulking Castel Sant鈥橢lmo and the equally art-filled Certosa di San Martino. While both charge admission, neighboring piazza Largo San Martino serves up a spectacular panorama of the city and its menacing volcano 鈥� at no cost at all. Play spot-the-landmark, then follow nearby Via Annibale Caccavello to the Gradini del Petraio, a network of stairways, ramps and alleys that winds down toward Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Chiaia, with gorgeous views along the way.

Planning tip: For the most memorable ride to Vomero, hop on a . One of the easiest city-center stops is Augusteo on Via Toledo.

7. Find your Zen at Villa Floridiana

Vomero is also home to the 19th-century Villa Floridiana, a rather generous gift from King Ferdinand I to his second wife, the Duchess of Floridia. Today, it houses the Museo Duca di Martina and its exquisite collection of European and Asian ceramics. While the museum charges an entry fee, the villa鈥檚 sprawling, verdant gardens are free to access 鈥� and well worth your time. Pack a book, grab some dirt-cheap Neapolitan street food from nearby Friggitoria Vomero (Via Domenico Cimarosa 44), and while away an hour under a cooling canopy of oaks, cypresses, palms and pines. Did we mention the romantic terrace views over Naples and the azure sea?

8. Perfect your passeggiata on Via Toledo

Like brazen double parking, the passeggiata (early-evening stroll) is a quintessential part of life in Naples. More than a mere saunter, this daily ritual is an anthropological study in Neapolitan flirtation, family pride and fashion, played out daily on its thoroughfares and piazze. Hit Via Toledo, a favorite route for the stroll, heading south from Piazza Dante to Piazza del Plebiscito, the city鈥檚 elegant drawing room. En route, dip into one of Italy鈥檚 grandest old shopping arcades, Galleria Umberto I, and pause at storied , where a fortifying espresso will cost you less than 鈧�2 (US$2.25) if ordered and sipped at the counter like a local.

9. Explore a treasure-filled palace library

Admission to the opulent Palazzo Reale and its collections will cost you 鈥� unless you access the wing that houses the atmospheric reading rooms of the , where access doesn鈥檛 cost a cent. This one of Italy鈥檚 largest libraries, housing ancient manuscripts, rare books and Herculaneum papyri quietly resting beneath frescoed ceilings. Head in before 3pm to lay eyes on these ancient texts, along with the exquisite , a library-within-a-library crafted by some of the most accomplished artisans of  19th-century Naples. 

Planning tip: Don鈥檛 forget to bring a valid photo ID, which you鈥檒l need to get into the library.

10. Explore a hyperactive street market

You could spend 鈧�60 (US$67) to see Verdi at the lustrous 鈥� or you could dive into a gritty Neapolitan marketplace. For both are electrifying, high-octane spectacles where desire, cunning and bellowing protagonists collide, to gripping effect. Two of the best markets in the city are La Pignasecca and Mercato di Porta Nolana 鈥� both central, chaotic and awash with fresh local produce, color and well-rehearsed roles. Look out for the shrewd, hawk-eyed nonne; booming fishmongers playing to the crowd; and dubious figures dwelling in the shadows. Yelling 鈥渂ravo!鈥� is optional.

Planning tip: Head to the stalls before 10am for the full, mouthwatering effect.

11. Get a glimpse of Naples鈥� mystical side

Ghoulish sites like the Complesso Museale Purgatorio ad Arco shed light on the often macabre directions in which Neopolitans take their religious devotion. For a similarly bewitching 鈥� and free 鈥� glimpse into the city鈥檚 intense strain of Catholicism, slip inside the , which incorporates the preserved 18th-century home of a revered mystic and stigmatic. The saint鈥檚 bloodied garments and self-flagellation cords remain on show, but it鈥檚 her miraculous wooden chair 鈥� said to bless infertile women 鈥� that draws queues of pilgrims.

12. Take a sunset seaside stroll

Naples鈥� Lungomare instantly lifts anyone鈥檚 mood. Where else can you stroll a major city seafront with prime-time views of Capri, Mt Vesuvius and storybook fortress Castel dell鈥橭vo (which Roman poet Virgil asserted sat atop a magic egg)? Stroll it, jog it or bike it 鈥� whatever your pace, you鈥檒l be smiling the whole way. For peak enchantment, head here an hour before sunset and cross the seafront west to east, starting at (ideal for a wallet-friendly gelato) and ending at Castel dell鈥橭vo, glowing gold in the setting sun.