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Cambodia's capital feels like a young soul growing out of old skin – its youthful population catapulting a once-deserted city into the fast-changing present. Headlined by brutal historic sites and chaotic streets, Phnom Penh can get a bad rap from travelers. True, at first glance, it’s a bit overwhelming. But take a moment to find its rhythm and cut your own path through one of the region’s most dynamic cities: increasingly fashionable, rich in culture and with a resurgent arts community, pockets of banging nightlife and an impressively eclectic food scene.

1. Admire the architecture of Vann Molyvann

Politics aside, no one has shaped Phnom Penh more than Vann Molyvann, the visionary architect who melded modernism with Khmer identity in the 1950s and ’60s. His fingerprints are everywhere: Olympic Stadium, Independence Monument, Chaktomuk Conference Hall. And his work is unmistakable – once you’ve familiarized yourself with one of his buildings, you’ll spot them everywhere. But they might not be around forever. So find an old remork-moto (tuk-tuk) driver who gets excited when you say Molyvann’s name and ask for a tour of the deceased legend’s work, finishing at the White Building, once a symbol of community and later, like a handful of his masterpieces, a controversial casualty of progress.

Detour: If you’re hooked on Molyvann, track down the documentary The Man Who Built Cambodia.

2. Discover Cambodia’s contemporary art scene

Cambodia’s art community is in the midst of a renaissance, with new galleries, co-ops and film houses sheltering an increasingly sophisticated scene that remains unmistakably Khmer. The  and  are two pillars; check their calendars for performances, screenings, exhibitions and concerts most nights of the week.

A diverse collection of independent art houses is headlined by the slick gallery ; , a collective of artisans set in a glorious old shophouse; and , a satellite of the , which like many of Cambodia’s best, grew out of , a prestigious art school with roots in Khmer Rouge-era refugee camps at the Thai border.

has a community feel, as well as welcoming ukulele circles and excellent vegetarian and vegan food in the attached .  hosts playful activities around exhibitions, and  screens thought-provoking films in its 15-seat cinema. is an exciting street-art hub. The riverside  is a sprawling creative center with exhibitions, coworking space and a king’s collection of murals – worth a look. 

Planning tip: Keep an eye out for boundary-bending exhibitions by , and , or look them up before you take off for a glimpse into the mystical worlds they create.

3. Explore the rising TTP district

A long-flickering light on the Phnom Penh map, Psar Tuol Tom Pong, often shortened to TTP, has emerged as a laid-back alternative to the city's default hustle and bustle. Perhaps the best one-stop shop for souvenirs, trinkets and gifts, the market is set in walkable surroundings that hold many a treat.

For coffee,  is a trendy, tucked-away microcafe that’s popular with Instagrammers.  serves barista brews for  (US$) every Tuesday to complement a creative vegan menu (and is one of the best accommodation options). For a side of bizarre, the street-side coffee and cocktail cart literally stops traffic when hoards descend for espresso martinis on the weekend – the only thing better is the owner’s stories.

There are plenty of comforts to go around in TTP. For live sports, go to . For grilled beef and beer with locals, try .  is a guesthouse with a rooftop boxing gym.  is a must for seafood lovers – fresh stuff in a cozy, homestyle setting.  sells all locally produced, natural, handmade health and beauty products; it's the kind of place where you buy gifts for others but keep them for yourself.

When it’s time to cool down for real, hit  for cocktails and canapés overlooking the market or celebrate the passing of the sun under the giant bamboo canopy at . 

Local tip: Bypass the dodgy massage joints for , which is first class, involves no funny business and has a perpetual 40% discount for those who know to ask.

4. Understand Cambodia’s ghastly past

It’s not easy delving into one of the darkest chapters in human history, but in Cambodia, you shouldn't turn away. Hire a remork for the day (about US$30) and head for Choeung Ek, where you can sometimes see bone fragments in the dirt after heavy rain. Stop two is Tuol Sleng, where Kaing Guek Eav (called Duch) – one of just a few Khmer Rouge leaders brought to trial – turned a school into a prison that tortured thousands. Their faces now stare back at you in haunting silence from the black-and-white photo displays. 

Planning tip: For a slightly less confrontational history lesson, track down the documentary Don’t Think I’ve Forgotten: Cambodia’s Lost Rock & Roll, which examines the Khmer Rouge era through the eyes of the rock stars of the time. 

5. Tap into the live music scene

Hospitable and offbeat, Phnom Penh’s scene pools souls from near and far.  is the undisputed champion – live music every night under the self-appointed but widely accepted tagline "Best Damn Bar." (There are hostesses inside, but they’re unobtrusive.)

Get 1960s (Golden Era) surf rock and psychedelia blended locally at  every Wednesday and Friday, with fine French fare. It’s popular, so book ahead.  goes for a similar vibe but has live music every night.

For something local, new and different,  is HQ for the alternative scene, nurturing an entire generation of the best black shirt bands in country. In TTP,  is dark and smoky, and hosts the best underground parties.  is an open-air, bare-concrete slammer with craft beer (and a jam room for hourly rent).

Lighter offerings are on the playlist at ; tunes start early, at 6pm on Thursdays and Sundays. Closer to the river,  serves indulgent food and live music in the beer garden Fridays and Sundays, while  hosts acoustic sessions in its cool, forestlike setting. For large concerts and special events, check , and . 

Planning tip: produces the best gig guide for Phnom Penh (and Siem Reap and Kampot).

6. Dive into Phnom Penh riverside

Deserted during the day, the riverside esplanade explodes to life as the sun melts away – first with afternoon exercisers, then street vendors, followed by families and frolickers. Before you know it, you’re dodging shuttlecocks, counting fishing boats, eating spiders and making friends. Words could die trying to describe why the riverside around dusk is special, but nowhere else can you find such a vast sample of Cambodia in one place.

Weekend evenings are a whole different scene. Cars are barred, the road is blocked and retagged as Walking Street, and thousands come out to see magicians, musicians and all manner of street performers work the crowds. It’s a recent addition to the city and still exudes the brand-new buzz.

Detour: Whether supplementary or complementary to a riverside strolls, take a sunset cruise on one of the boats standing by – disco lights and large speakers make the vessels easy to spot and can help you decide how loud and wild you want your trip to get. Looking back from the boat, the city skyline is in full sparkle. 

7. Dine and dance the night away on Bassac Lane

Once a haven for overpaid development workers, Bassac Lane is now good times central. All dining and disco needs are accounted for on one very walkable strip.

Start at  for modern Chinese cuisine and front-row seats to some of Phnom Penh’s best people watching. Across the lane,  is always buzzing and a nice, neutral venue to get your bearings before venturing into other realms. Local haunt  is another prime starter spot, with stylized cocktail jugs, great tunes and a fun menu of m’hop klaem (drinking snacks); it began serving drinks from a tuk-tuk.

When the time’s right, ,  and  beckon, three nightclubs where, with the right conditions, you could almost be having enough fun to think you’re in Berlin. Positioned appropriately at the end of the main alley, Bassac’s crowning glory is , a trendy mixer that feels as speakeasy as it does jazz club – you’re as likely to see the latest hip-hop star perform there as you are to be teleported by a Golden Era diva.

Finally,  is an outrageous institution, with drag shows in which anything goes.  is a late-night favorite among Phnom Penh’s boisterous LGBTQ+ crowd, and , which stands supreme over all Cambodian clubs, is conquered only with a bowl of rice porridge from across the road, ears ringing after emerging from its depths to be surprised and blinded by tomorrow’s sun.

Local tip: If you’re yet to develop a taste for the stinky staple of Cambodian cuisine, Uniga’s prahok cocktail offers a chance to earn your badge of honor. Whiskey, honey, citrus and ginger complement the fermented fish paste. The barkeep can’t wait to see your smile. Chnganh! ("Delicious!")

Matt Blomberg is based in Phnom Penh and contributed to ÌÇÐÄ´«Ã½'s guidebook, published in September 2025.