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³¢¾±Ã¨²µ±ð is like a lliving architectural onion with layer upon layer of history lying just beneath the surface. The proudly free-spirited citizens are disarmingly friendly and no Belgian city bubbles with more joie de vivre. The beer is cheap, the eating scene is authentically local and if you can cope with the grubby, downbeat facade you're likely to find ³¢¾±Ã¨²µ±ð a quirkily compulsive discovery.