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For a taste of Iceland’s raw countryside, visit this 300-sq-km wilderness reserve, a mere 40km from ReykjavÃk. Established in 1975, the reserve protects the elaborate lava formations created by the dramatic Reykjanes ridge volcanoes. Its three showpieces are Kleifarvatn, a deep mineral lake with submerged hot springs and black-sand beaches; the spitting, bubbling KrýsuvÃk geothermal zone at ³§±ð±ô³Ùú²Ô; and the Southwest’s largest bird cliffs, the epic KrýsuvÃkurberg. The whole area is criss-crossed by walking trails. Get good maps at KeflavÃk, GrindavÃk or Hafnarfjörður tourist offices. You'll see parking turnouts at the head of the most popular walks, including the loop around Kleifarvatn, and the tracks along the craggy Sveifluháls and Núpshliðarháls ridges.
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